Day 1 ~ 06/07/2006
The start of our summer holiday was announced with a thunder storm and sheet lightening. This slowed our progress, having left home at 8 am. With the roads awash, we arrived at a small site at Marston Nurseries at around 11 o’clock. Of course, it stopped raining as soon as we had set up and the weather cleared in to baking sunshine. The site was formed by two fields adjacent to a horse paddock.
After lunch, we set off in the car for a walk in The Cotswolds, from Mickleton. The circular route of nine miles took us across undulating fields and tacks of typical Cotswold stone with wonderful views only hampered by the hazy conditions. It was a difficult route to follow, with us setting off down the wrong path from the outset. It did prove to be a pretty walk with some beautiful Cotswold stone houses along the route. Once back at the car at about 3.30, we could not find a pub open so returned to the caravan for a warm beer (having forgotten to stock the fridge).
We had tickets to see Romeo and Juliet at the Royal Shakespeare Company Theatre in Stratford upon Avon. We had a drink first at Cox’s Yard on the bank of the River Avon, before the play started at 7.30 pm. The performance was a modern interpretation and took us a little by surprise. After, we bought a Chinese takeaway and took it back to the caravan.
Day 2 ~ 07/07/2006
Friday saw a lazy morning with a drive through the countryside to the village of Broadway, anticipated to be a pretty village, but disappointingly over developed in reality. We returned to Stratford upon Avon, enjoying a stroll by the river, crossing to the town via the hand operated chain ferry. We explored on foot, visiting a number of shops and the market, acquiring some books, including two Michael Palin hard back books for the collection.
Our stroll took us to Shakespeare’s birthplace, house and exhibition, in the centre of town and well preserved. Of note, Shakespeare did not have any children and of all the plays he wrote, not one original manuscript exists.
After, we visited the Garrick Arms, a public house dating from the 1600s, before more exploration ending at Cox’s Yard for our last drink.
Later we collected Abigail and Lucy from Ryton on Dunsmore, returning with them to the caravan for an afternoon of games and a BBQ.
Day 3 ~ 08/07/2006
On Saturday after more fun and games in the field, we set off to find a shire horse centre that Jayne had seen, but we were unable to locate it. Instead, at Moreton-in-the-Marsh we found a falconry centre, where we saw many birds of prey and observed two flying sessions, including two owls, a pair of Turkey Vultures, Harris Hawk, Lana Hawk and a Chilean Eagle. This was fascinating to watch and the girls enjoyed it too.
Stopping for a drink enroute back to the caravan, we found it a bit too breezy to sit outside. Later, we had a BBQ.
Day 4 ~ 09/07/2006
Sunday started with showers and blustery weather. We had a lazy morning playing cards before taking the girls home. We then took a cross country route home via Oxford.
Showing posts with label ENGLAND. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ENGLAND. Show all posts
Sunday, 20 February 2011
Saturday, 19 February 2011
ENGLAND – The Peak District
Day 1 ~ 07/06/2006 ~ Grin Low
This trip had been long awaited, the plan being to do some walking and visit Alton Towers. The drive up took nearly five hours and was quite demanding after working a night shift. At just over two hundred miles, this was also the longest journey towing the caravan. We arrived to find a very unusual but attractive site, situated in an old quarry, now grassed and redeveloped, but still showing the hewn rock faces enclosing the site. As the pitches were all level hard standing, we were away on foot in a very short time, for a 5 mile circular walk. It started with a climb to a small observation tower with great views, before turning into a wood emerging the other side. The route turned into a sweeping long circle, covering several miles of farm land. Sheep were almost everywhere and seemed to be the main type of farming in the area.
During the evening, which was still very warm, we dined outside with a BBQ. It was still twilight at 10pm.
Day 2 ~ 08/06/2006 ~ Alton Towers
An early start to beat the crowds and make the most of the day; we had queue jumper tickets which allowed you to get to the front of the queue on several rides. The first few rides were thoroughly enjoyable or gut wrenching - Oblivion (a vertical fall) and Rita Queen of Speed being my favourites. As it was a warm day, the water rides were also there to be enjoyed and we had two goes on each.
The warm weather held for the evening and another BBQ was in order.
Day 3 ~ 09/06/2006 ~ Edale
We made an early start to get a few miles in before it got too hot. Starting from Edale, we completed a seven mile loop of moderate difficulty but amazing views. The route took us up a gorge, following a stream getting narrower and steeper with a scramble up some rocks on to the moorland top, having climbed about 1200 feet. The path up and over Kinder Scout offered a few miles of breath-taking views and unusual rock formations. The path intersected with the Pennine Way and we turned south descending Jacob’s Ladder and a further two miles to Edale. This was the most impressive walk we had completed to date. Edale itself had a warm feel to it and we relaxed in The Nag’s Head sampling local brew of the same name. Back in the car, we stopped nearby for a picnic. The afternoon was spent exploring the Dark Peak area of the national park.
In the evening, we drove to the nearby village of Chelmorton and ate at the Church Inn pub. This was another hot evening with a pleasant meal in a country pub.
Day 4 ~ 10/06/2006 ~ White Peak and the journey home
Saturday had come too soon. We left at lunch time and took a cross country route to Ashbourne to see more of the White Peak (southern) area of the Peak District. Today was the first England match of the World Cup. The radio commentary passed two hours of the trip and the match seemed to keep the roads clear, however it was also the British Grand Prix this weekend so we were diverted a few miles to avoid Silverstone. The return journey took much the same time as the drive up.
This trip had been long awaited, the plan being to do some walking and visit Alton Towers. The drive up took nearly five hours and was quite demanding after working a night shift. At just over two hundred miles, this was also the longest journey towing the caravan. We arrived to find a very unusual but attractive site, situated in an old quarry, now grassed and redeveloped, but still showing the hewn rock faces enclosing the site. As the pitches were all level hard standing, we were away on foot in a very short time, for a 5 mile circular walk. It started with a climb to a small observation tower with great views, before turning into a wood emerging the other side. The route turned into a sweeping long circle, covering several miles of farm land. Sheep were almost everywhere and seemed to be the main type of farming in the area.
During the evening, which was still very warm, we dined outside with a BBQ. It was still twilight at 10pm.
Day 2 ~ 08/06/2006 ~ Alton Towers
An early start to beat the crowds and make the most of the day; we had queue jumper tickets which allowed you to get to the front of the queue on several rides. The first few rides were thoroughly enjoyable or gut wrenching - Oblivion (a vertical fall) and Rita Queen of Speed being my favourites. As it was a warm day, the water rides were also there to be enjoyed and we had two goes on each.
The warm weather held for the evening and another BBQ was in order.
Day 3 ~ 09/06/2006 ~ Edale
We made an early start to get a few miles in before it got too hot. Starting from Edale, we completed a seven mile loop of moderate difficulty but amazing views. The route took us up a gorge, following a stream getting narrower and steeper with a scramble up some rocks on to the moorland top, having climbed about 1200 feet. The path up and over Kinder Scout offered a few miles of breath-taking views and unusual rock formations. The path intersected with the Pennine Way and we turned south descending Jacob’s Ladder and a further two miles to Edale. This was the most impressive walk we had completed to date. Edale itself had a warm feel to it and we relaxed in The Nag’s Head sampling local brew of the same name. Back in the car, we stopped nearby for a picnic. The afternoon was spent exploring the Dark Peak area of the national park.
In the evening, we drove to the nearby village of Chelmorton and ate at the Church Inn pub. This was another hot evening with a pleasant meal in a country pub.
Day 4 ~ 10/06/2006 ~ White Peak and the journey home
Saturday had come too soon. We left at lunch time and took a cross country route to Ashbourne to see more of the White Peak (southern) area of the Peak District. Today was the first England match of the World Cup. The radio commentary passed two hours of the trip and the match seemed to keep the roads clear, however it was also the British Grand Prix this weekend so we were diverted a few miles to avoid Silverstone. The return journey took much the same time as the drive up.
ENGLAND – The Isle of Purbeck
The Isle of Purbeck – Four Days of Walking on the Jurassic Coast
Having seen something of Europe, it occurred to me that I had not seen very much of my own country. A caravan would lend itself to visiting some of the more rural places so while we purchased a cheap but cheerful 1991 two berth caravan and made it homely. It would see quite a lot of use up and down England during 2006. I kept a handwritten diary of our most of our travels during this time and the more interesting trips are reproduced here.
Day 1 ~ 18/04/2006 ~ Swyre Head & Kimmeridge
Only an hour and a half from home, we arrived at Swalland Farm, Kimmeridge, a working farm with a small field for a few caravans. With only a tap on site, we were totally dependent on the caravan. It did offer an amazing view of the sea, with Swyre Head rising steeply behind us as a backdrop.
Once set up for our stay, we set off on our first walk, a six to seven mile walk, starting with a climb to the top of Swyre Head. This was the first of many steep climbs and the view from the top was worth the effort, offering glimpses of Corfe Castle, Poole Harbour, Brownsea Island, the sea and cliffs. We followed the ridge path, eventually dropping down into Kimmeridge, a pleasant small village that we both agreed we could live in. Once down to the bay, we climbed the cliff path, passing Clavell Tower and following the coast path to Rope Lake Head where the foot path led back to the caravan. In the evening we found that both the television and radio had packed up – so we would spend a lot of time reading this trip!
Day 2 ~ 19/04/2006 ~ Tyneham Village to Lulworth Cove
Tyneham is an abandoned village, or rather was seized by the Ministry of Defence during the Second World War. It lies within the Purbeck firing ranges and the residents were forced to leave on a ‘temporary basis’. Sixty years later, the village is still in MOD hands. This day of walking was to be the longest and most difficult of the trip. It was also very foggy so we could hardly see anything. The route took us in a loop from Tyneham back to Kimmeridge, before climbing again to Tyneham, then down to Worbarrow Bat where we stopped for lunch. We then climbed the almost vertical path to Flowers Barrow, before descending again to Arish Mell, a small cove, passing abandoned and rusting tanks, used for target practice. Another steep climb and descent into Mupe Bay followed, leading us along the Jurassic Coast to Lulworth Cove. Another impossibly steep climb up to Bindon Hill was next. The ridge path took us back to Arish Mell where we were to make one our final steep ascent at Flowers Barrow. The ridge path continued all the way back to Tyneham. We explored the remains of the village, heavily shelled except for the small school house and church. This was an exhausting eleven miles.
In the evening, we dined at The New Inn at Church Knowle. We enjoyed a fantastic Poachers Pie and will definitely visit again.
Day 3 ~ 20/04/2006 ~ Corfe Castle & Old Harry
This would be a day of rest, taking in the remains of Corfe Castle, a thousand year old castle, laid to ruins in 1646 during the civil war.
We continued to Studland Bay where we took a short walk of two and a half miles, to Old Harry and back, following the coast path and the Purbeck Way across Ballard Down. We had lunch in The Bankers Arms pub. We then took the scenic route back, stopping for a pint at Kingston at the Scott Arms. With many hours of daylight left, we decided to visit Lulworth Cove again. The cove was very pretty and definitely somewhere to visit by sea, but we endured a downpour. This part of coast demonstrates why it is of such geological importance, with rock formations, twisted arches of strata and Stair Hole, worn through by the sea over millennia.
Day 4 ~ 21/04/2006 ~ Durdle Door
On our last day, we would complete a seven mile loop from Lulworth Cove, heading west by inland footpaths as far as West Bottom and back along the coast path. We had obviously adjusted to the steep climbs because this route seemed much easier despite the steep gradients involved. At a height of 169 metres, we were reminded how close France is to this area – as our mobile phones picked up French networks.
The coast path took in a series of small bays; West Bottom, Middle Bottom then up to Bat’s Head. This cliff top offered views of The Cow and Calf rocks and the small Bat’s Hole, a small soft spot in the headland where the sea has driven a tunnel through.
A little while later, Durdle Door came into view. We paused for a coffee while admiring one of the most remarkable coastal features in the country. Twenty minutes later, the loop was completed. After lunch, we hitched up for the drive home. Four days in the Isle of Purbeck complete immerses you in the wilderness feel of the area.
Having seen something of Europe, it occurred to me that I had not seen very much of my own country. A caravan would lend itself to visiting some of the more rural places so while we purchased a cheap but cheerful 1991 two berth caravan and made it homely. It would see quite a lot of use up and down England during 2006. I kept a handwritten diary of our most of our travels during this time and the more interesting trips are reproduced here.
Day 1 ~ 18/04/2006 ~ Swyre Head & Kimmeridge
Only an hour and a half from home, we arrived at Swalland Farm, Kimmeridge, a working farm with a small field for a few caravans. With only a tap on site, we were totally dependent on the caravan. It did offer an amazing view of the sea, with Swyre Head rising steeply behind us as a backdrop.
Once set up for our stay, we set off on our first walk, a six to seven mile walk, starting with a climb to the top of Swyre Head. This was the first of many steep climbs and the view from the top was worth the effort, offering glimpses of Corfe Castle, Poole Harbour, Brownsea Island, the sea and cliffs. We followed the ridge path, eventually dropping down into Kimmeridge, a pleasant small village that we both agreed we could live in. Once down to the bay, we climbed the cliff path, passing Clavell Tower and following the coast path to Rope Lake Head where the foot path led back to the caravan. In the evening we found that both the television and radio had packed up – so we would spend a lot of time reading this trip!
Day 2 ~ 19/04/2006 ~ Tyneham Village to Lulworth Cove
Tyneham is an abandoned village, or rather was seized by the Ministry of Defence during the Second World War. It lies within the Purbeck firing ranges and the residents were forced to leave on a ‘temporary basis’. Sixty years later, the village is still in MOD hands. This day of walking was to be the longest and most difficult of the trip. It was also very foggy so we could hardly see anything. The route took us in a loop from Tyneham back to Kimmeridge, before climbing again to Tyneham, then down to Worbarrow Bat where we stopped for lunch. We then climbed the almost vertical path to Flowers Barrow, before descending again to Arish Mell, a small cove, passing abandoned and rusting tanks, used for target practice. Another steep climb and descent into Mupe Bay followed, leading us along the Jurassic Coast to Lulworth Cove. Another impossibly steep climb up to Bindon Hill was next. The ridge path took us back to Arish Mell where we were to make one our final steep ascent at Flowers Barrow. The ridge path continued all the way back to Tyneham. We explored the remains of the village, heavily shelled except for the small school house and church. This was an exhausting eleven miles.
In the evening, we dined at The New Inn at Church Knowle. We enjoyed a fantastic Poachers Pie and will definitely visit again.
Day 3 ~ 20/04/2006 ~ Corfe Castle & Old Harry
This would be a day of rest, taking in the remains of Corfe Castle, a thousand year old castle, laid to ruins in 1646 during the civil war.
We continued to Studland Bay where we took a short walk of two and a half miles, to Old Harry and back, following the coast path and the Purbeck Way across Ballard Down. We had lunch in The Bankers Arms pub. We then took the scenic route back, stopping for a pint at Kingston at the Scott Arms. With many hours of daylight left, we decided to visit Lulworth Cove again. The cove was very pretty and definitely somewhere to visit by sea, but we endured a downpour. This part of coast demonstrates why it is of such geological importance, with rock formations, twisted arches of strata and Stair Hole, worn through by the sea over millennia.
Day 4 ~ 21/04/2006 ~ Durdle Door
On our last day, we would complete a seven mile loop from Lulworth Cove, heading west by inland footpaths as far as West Bottom and back along the coast path. We had obviously adjusted to the steep climbs because this route seemed much easier despite the steep gradients involved. At a height of 169 metres, we were reminded how close France is to this area – as our mobile phones picked up French networks.
The coast path took in a series of small bays; West Bottom, Middle Bottom then up to Bat’s Head. This cliff top offered views of The Cow and Calf rocks and the small Bat’s Hole, a small soft spot in the headland where the sea has driven a tunnel through.
A little while later, Durdle Door came into view. We paused for a coffee while admiring one of the most remarkable coastal features in the country. Twenty minutes later, the loop was completed. After lunch, we hitched up for the drive home. Four days in the Isle of Purbeck complete immerses you in the wilderness feel of the area.
ENGLAND - Yorkshire
Inspired by the television series, “All Creatures Great and Small”, Jayne and I planned a four day trip to Yorkshire. Jayne had also found a lovely book on James Heriot. We were also taking advantage of an offer from the Travelodge chain of hotels. Given enough notice, rooms could be had for under £20. Clean and functional, we chose the hotel at Scotch Corner due to its central location to the places we wanted to visit.
Day 1 - 19/01/09- Richmond & Harrogate
Our first day also included the long drive up from home. Richmond and Harrogate both featured in the television series as substantial towns and looked to be worthy of a visit. Harrogate promised plenty of 19th century architecture, but on arrival disappointed us a little. The blend of old and new did not feel right. We stopped for coffee before walking around the town. Harrogate is a spa town that was visited as a stopover between London and Scotland. Perhaps we had not regarded the town in context.
Richmond however was just what we had hoped for. Perched on the top of a hill, with tumbling waterfalls at the bottom, Richmond was the North Yorkshire town to visit. The square enclosed by pubs, hotels, shops, a church and the castle, had everything a visitor would want. We whiled away a pleasant few hours before heading to the hotel to check in. The impression of the Dales is of rolling countryside, overlooked by windswept high ground.
The hotel was just what we expected – plain but ideally located. In the evening we strolled the half mile down the lane to the nearest pub, the Shoulder of Mutton. The landlord and lady were very welcoming and we ate well. We also made the most of the local Black Sheep beer. Later in the evening as closing time approached, the locals let us in on their evil ways. The dominoes came out. They take the game very seriously!
Day 2 - 20/01/09 - North York Moors
Setting out cross-country, it was immediately apparent that we were the first car down many of the lanes this morning as the snow lay undisturbed from the overnight fall. The Moors seemed a more rugged place than the Dales, looking much more like mountains than big hills. We passed through some attractive villages, making a loop of the North Yorkshire Moors National Park. At Helmsley, we stopped for coffee before heading to Goathland, the fictional village of Aidensfield (Heartbeat TV series) and carried on north-eastwards to Robin Hood’s Bay for a leg stretch and a pint at The Bay Hotel.
Continuing north, we visited the fishing town of Whitby where we ate in a pub overlooking the river. This was a lovely town, bustling with activity.
Day 3 - 21/01/09 - Yorkshire Dales
Following the same theme as the day before, we planned to make a loop of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. The scenery in Yorkshire proved why it is a popular choice for film and television production. We visited Aysgarth Falls where scenes of Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves were filmed. At Hawes, we stopped for refreshment and made some cheese purchases - Swaledale and Wensleydale. There was also a ropewalk, where we were able to watch machinery weaving twines to make rope.
The Tan Hill Inn is the highest pub in Great Britain, situated on the Pennine Way at an altitude of 1732 feet. Surrounded by snow, it was a welcoming sight. Inside we sat by the fire. It was a very quiet day for them but it was evident that during the summer months, the pub was regularly filled to capacity.
Day 4 - 22/01/09 – York
Our final day would be a visit to the city of York before driving home. It took an hour to drive in to York, but we found a town that was ideally suited to exploration on foot. Our trusty travel book suggested a walking tour of the centre and it took in The Shambles tiny cobbled shopping street, York Castle and finally York Minster which we visited. York Minster is served by its own police force, the smallest warranted force in the country. The route also made for a great pub crawl. We visited Ye Olde Starre Inne (the oldest pub) and the Blue Bell (the smallest pub where the bar was smaller than our lounge). This was a town that you could easily spend more time in, with a number of museums, the river, restaurants and its atmosphere all compelling you to stay longer. Unfortunately, we had to go
Day 1 - 19/01/09- Richmond & Harrogate
Our first day also included the long drive up from home. Richmond and Harrogate both featured in the television series as substantial towns and looked to be worthy of a visit. Harrogate promised plenty of 19th century architecture, but on arrival disappointed us a little. The blend of old and new did not feel right. We stopped for coffee before walking around the town. Harrogate is a spa town that was visited as a stopover between London and Scotland. Perhaps we had not regarded the town in context.
Richmond however was just what we had hoped for. Perched on the top of a hill, with tumbling waterfalls at the bottom, Richmond was the North Yorkshire town to visit. The square enclosed by pubs, hotels, shops, a church and the castle, had everything a visitor would want. We whiled away a pleasant few hours before heading to the hotel to check in. The impression of the Dales is of rolling countryside, overlooked by windswept high ground.
The hotel was just what we expected – plain but ideally located. In the evening we strolled the half mile down the lane to the nearest pub, the Shoulder of Mutton. The landlord and lady were very welcoming and we ate well. We also made the most of the local Black Sheep beer. Later in the evening as closing time approached, the locals let us in on their evil ways. The dominoes came out. They take the game very seriously!
Day 2 - 20/01/09 - North York Moors
Setting out cross-country, it was immediately apparent that we were the first car down many of the lanes this morning as the snow lay undisturbed from the overnight fall. The Moors seemed a more rugged place than the Dales, looking much more like mountains than big hills. We passed through some attractive villages, making a loop of the North Yorkshire Moors National Park. At Helmsley, we stopped for coffee before heading to Goathland, the fictional village of Aidensfield (Heartbeat TV series) and carried on north-eastwards to Robin Hood’s Bay for a leg stretch and a pint at The Bay Hotel.
Continuing north, we visited the fishing town of Whitby where we ate in a pub overlooking the river. This was a lovely town, bustling with activity.
Day 3 - 21/01/09 - Yorkshire Dales
Following the same theme as the day before, we planned to make a loop of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. The scenery in Yorkshire proved why it is a popular choice for film and television production. We visited Aysgarth Falls where scenes of Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves were filmed. At Hawes, we stopped for refreshment and made some cheese purchases - Swaledale and Wensleydale. There was also a ropewalk, where we were able to watch machinery weaving twines to make rope.
The Tan Hill Inn is the highest pub in Great Britain, situated on the Pennine Way at an altitude of 1732 feet. Surrounded by snow, it was a welcoming sight. Inside we sat by the fire. It was a very quiet day for them but it was evident that during the summer months, the pub was regularly filled to capacity.
Day 4 - 22/01/09 – York
Our final day would be a visit to the city of York before driving home. It took an hour to drive in to York, but we found a town that was ideally suited to exploration on foot. Our trusty travel book suggested a walking tour of the centre and it took in The Shambles tiny cobbled shopping street, York Castle and finally York Minster which we visited. York Minster is served by its own police force, the smallest warranted force in the country. The route also made for a great pub crawl. We visited Ye Olde Starre Inne (the oldest pub) and the Blue Bell (the smallest pub where the bar was smaller than our lounge). This was a town that you could easily spend more time in, with a number of museums, the river, restaurants and its atmosphere all compelling you to stay longer. Unfortunately, we had to go
Tuesday, 1 February 2011
ENGLAND - Chester
30/01/11
Arriving in Chester at about 1pm, we were too early to check in to the hotel so we went into the Pitcher and Piano, the pub next door for some refreshment. The hotel was situated opposite the remains of the largest Roman Amphitheatre in Britain. It actually seemed quite small but I was comparing it to the Coliseum, so I suppose it would be! It had been partially uncovered and use had been made of mock-ups to aid the imagination. The hotel was within fifty metres of the East Gate. We joined the city wall walk here. Chester has the only complete city wall left in the country and measuring nearly two miles long, makes for a good way to see the town centre. The path follows the top of the town wall for most of the way, only descending to street level briefly along the banks of the River Dee. A weir helps keep the water level in the upper stretches and tour boats ply the waters in season. Below the weir, the river was very obviously tidal and not too attractive, but the town walls soon veered away from the bank to the Chester race course. The walls offered an excellent view of the entire circuit. Interrupting the walk, we visited The Pied Bull pub for a sample of some local ales.
Re-joining the wall, the path soon turned parallel to the Shropshire Union Canal and a locked junction with other waterways. An unusual scene opened up, with a rail bridge crossing a road, crossing a canal. An old open top bus was passing by too. It was a good demonstration of transportation through the ages. The canal was in a deep gorge parallel to the city wall as we passed the cathedral. An unusual clock spanned the path as it crossed a bridge over one of the main shopping streets.
With the walk over, we made the most of the day light and wandered the shopping streets deciding where to eat in the evening. Chester is known for the Chester Rows; shops and restaurants situated on two levels along each side of the road. The ancient walk ways date back to the 13th century, though most of the current buildings date back to the 19th century. One of these was the 12th century Victoria Inn and we rested our legs for a bit. Resuming our walk, we continued through the precincts returning to the hotel to check in.
Overcome with hunger, we ate at the Piccolino Italian restaurant. We enjoyed the most delicious olives we have ever had. Afterwards, as it was still early, we ventured through the Rows finding our way back to The Pied Bull again, via the Slug and Lettuce. As the evening drew to a close, we returned to the Pitcher and Piano before turning in for the night.
31/01/11
Heading out promptly at nine o’clock, our plans were to find out more about the history of Chester. We headed to the cathedral, through the upper galleries of the Rows. The heart of the building is nearly 1000 years old and there have been religious buildings on the site for a thousand years before. The cathedral has the most detailed wood carvings to be seen anywhere and it was evident that the cathedral has strong links still with the military, there being a number of remembrance areas within.
After breakfast in a café overlooking the cathedral, we crossed the town to the Grosvenor Museum, a combined natural history / local history museum. It included a 19th century period house, an expansive silver collection and the largest collection of Roman headstones found in the country. Most had been unearthed within the city walls during a repair project in the 1920s. Why they were there, no one can tell but it was done in the Middle Ages and it managed to preserve them from years of weathering.
At midday, we had finished and it seemed the right time to depart for home. Most memorable will be the city wall walk and the Chester Rows.
Arriving in Chester at about 1pm, we were too early to check in to the hotel so we went into the Pitcher and Piano, the pub next door for some refreshment. The hotel was situated opposite the remains of the largest Roman Amphitheatre in Britain. It actually seemed quite small but I was comparing it to the Coliseum, so I suppose it would be! It had been partially uncovered and use had been made of mock-ups to aid the imagination. The hotel was within fifty metres of the East Gate. We joined the city wall walk here. Chester has the only complete city wall left in the country and measuring nearly two miles long, makes for a good way to see the town centre. The path follows the top of the town wall for most of the way, only descending to street level briefly along the banks of the River Dee. A weir helps keep the water level in the upper stretches and tour boats ply the waters in season. Below the weir, the river was very obviously tidal and not too attractive, but the town walls soon veered away from the bank to the Chester race course. The walls offered an excellent view of the entire circuit. Interrupting the walk, we visited The Pied Bull pub for a sample of some local ales.
Re-joining the wall, the path soon turned parallel to the Shropshire Union Canal and a locked junction with other waterways. An unusual scene opened up, with a rail bridge crossing a road, crossing a canal. An old open top bus was passing by too. It was a good demonstration of transportation through the ages. The canal was in a deep gorge parallel to the city wall as we passed the cathedral. An unusual clock spanned the path as it crossed a bridge over one of the main shopping streets.
With the walk over, we made the most of the day light and wandered the shopping streets deciding where to eat in the evening. Chester is known for the Chester Rows; shops and restaurants situated on two levels along each side of the road. The ancient walk ways date back to the 13th century, though most of the current buildings date back to the 19th century. One of these was the 12th century Victoria Inn and we rested our legs for a bit. Resuming our walk, we continued through the precincts returning to the hotel to check in.
Overcome with hunger, we ate at the Piccolino Italian restaurant. We enjoyed the most delicious olives we have ever had. Afterwards, as it was still early, we ventured through the Rows finding our way back to The Pied Bull again, via the Slug and Lettuce. As the evening drew to a close, we returned to the Pitcher and Piano before turning in for the night.
31/01/11
Heading out promptly at nine o’clock, our plans were to find out more about the history of Chester. We headed to the cathedral, through the upper galleries of the Rows. The heart of the building is nearly 1000 years old and there have been religious buildings on the site for a thousand years before. The cathedral has the most detailed wood carvings to be seen anywhere and it was evident that the cathedral has strong links still with the military, there being a number of remembrance areas within.
After breakfast in a café overlooking the cathedral, we crossed the town to the Grosvenor Museum, a combined natural history / local history museum. It included a 19th century period house, an expansive silver collection and the largest collection of Roman headstones found in the country. Most had been unearthed within the city walls during a repair project in the 1920s. Why they were there, no one can tell but it was done in the Middle Ages and it managed to preserve them from years of weathering.
At midday, we had finished and it seemed the right time to depart for home. Most memorable will be the city wall walk and the Chester Rows.
Saturday, 29 January 2011
THE NETHERLANDS –Leiden & The Hague, via Lincoln
07/12/10 - Lincoln
It has been a number of years since our last trip to The Netherlands. Looking to add a little variety to our winter excursions, Holland seemed the obvious choice now cheap local flights are a thing of the past. Fortunately, P&O still operate the Hull to Rotterdam route at the same bargain price we have paid before.
This time, the journey would be a little different, taking advantage of the late sailing time. If we were to drive to Hull, we would visit somewhere different along the way there. Today it would be Lincoln. Heavy snow fall had threatened the trip, but on the morning of departure, the main routes were again clear. The scenery was spectacular, particularly the heavy morning frost on the trees that line the A43. Once off the M1, the route to Lincoln was much slower. Road works and snow fall are a bad combination, but never the less we arrived in Lincoln at lunch time. Ascending to the top of the hill and surrounded by snow, we wandered the cobbled streets, lunching at a pub and visiting the cathedral. Lincoln was once the fourth most important town in England, its fortune made from cloth and wool. The medieval streets and buildings have a new lease of life as pubs, shops and restaurants.
08/12/10 - Leiden
The drive from Europoort to Leiden was a short one. We had deliberately chosen a destination nearby, to make the most of the day and in case the weather was worse on the continent. It was a bleak and grey day, but the roads were clear and within an hour, we were struggling to find anywhere to park.
Everywhere was pay and display, but the machines only accepted local bank cards. Leiden is an ancient university town, typical of the other Dutch towns we have visited, being criss-crossed by canals and bridges. Our guide book suggested a walking tour that took in the oldest buildings and bridges. The canal side market seemed to be the busiest place and we wandered around trying to choose somewhere to eat. Alas, our command of the Dutch language does not extend to deciphering menus and the guide book was not much help either. Leiden is one of those towns that I am glad to have visited as it is ‘real Holland’, but not one I propose to visit again though. The Hague was a different matter though.
The Hague
If ever there was a town that felt like it was the centre of Europe, it must be The Hague. Despite the splendid Flemish architecture leaving you in no doubt that you are abroad, there is something about it that makes it feel like it is home to all nations.
It is no surprise then that the town is the judicial home of the United Nations. Unlike Leiden, we were away from car and exploring within minutes. Again, our guide book proved excellent, escorting us around the most attractive features, particularly the 13th century Binnenhof parliament building and the shopping streets, including the Passage covered arcade, the only remaining one in The Netherlands, dating from the 19th century.
Now pushed for time, we headed back to the ferry, forced to eat aboard again.
It has been a number of years since our last trip to The Netherlands. Looking to add a little variety to our winter excursions, Holland seemed the obvious choice now cheap local flights are a thing of the past. Fortunately, P&O still operate the Hull to Rotterdam route at the same bargain price we have paid before.
This time, the journey would be a little different, taking advantage of the late sailing time. If we were to drive to Hull, we would visit somewhere different along the way there. Today it would be Lincoln. Heavy snow fall had threatened the trip, but on the morning of departure, the main routes were again clear. The scenery was spectacular, particularly the heavy morning frost on the trees that line the A43. Once off the M1, the route to Lincoln was much slower. Road works and snow fall are a bad combination, but never the less we arrived in Lincoln at lunch time. Ascending to the top of the hill and surrounded by snow, we wandered the cobbled streets, lunching at a pub and visiting the cathedral. Lincoln was once the fourth most important town in England, its fortune made from cloth and wool. The medieval streets and buildings have a new lease of life as pubs, shops and restaurants.
08/12/10 - Leiden
The drive from Europoort to Leiden was a short one. We had deliberately chosen a destination nearby, to make the most of the day and in case the weather was worse on the continent. It was a bleak and grey day, but the roads were clear and within an hour, we were struggling to find anywhere to park.
Everywhere was pay and display, but the machines only accepted local bank cards. Leiden is an ancient university town, typical of the other Dutch towns we have visited, being criss-crossed by canals and bridges. Our guide book suggested a walking tour that took in the oldest buildings and bridges. The canal side market seemed to be the busiest place and we wandered around trying to choose somewhere to eat. Alas, our command of the Dutch language does not extend to deciphering menus and the guide book was not much help either. Leiden is one of those towns that I am glad to have visited as it is ‘real Holland’, but not one I propose to visit again though. The Hague was a different matter though.
The Hague
If ever there was a town that felt like it was the centre of Europe, it must be The Hague. Despite the splendid Flemish architecture leaving you in no doubt that you are abroad, there is something about it that makes it feel like it is home to all nations.
It is no surprise then that the town is the judicial home of the United Nations. Unlike Leiden, we were away from car and exploring within minutes. Again, our guide book proved excellent, escorting us around the most attractive features, particularly the 13th century Binnenhof parliament building and the shopping streets, including the Passage covered arcade, the only remaining one in The Netherlands, dating from the 19th century.
Now pushed for time, we headed back to the ferry, forced to eat aboard again.
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